We met a most remarkable Indian couple for dinner one of the last evenings we were in Delhi. We ate at the nicest restaurant I have yet seen in Delhi, although it was not expensive by Western standards.
India is like a keg, a powder keg, Vandar (as usual, a pseudonymn for protection) said in response to my question at the dinner table. I had asked what would the spiritual climate of India look like in five years. Vandar and his wife Omiya have labored for over 30 years in a church movement they started. Today, the growing movement has thousands of churches and workers spread over much of northern India. Its name would be familiar to many Indian Christians, but I will not write it here.
He elaborated. This keg could blow up at almost any time and try to consume Christianity. 15 years ago, Vandar said, the Hindus did not like us, but they did not hate us. Today, he said, they hate us. In the intervening years, the Hindus have become very jealous of the growth of Christianity. Never has the nation been so open to the spread of the Gospel. Many are being baptized.
That jealousy has increasingly taken a radical and violent turn. Vandar named two recent incidents in Orissa, an Indian state along the Bay of Bengal. In the first, about 1,200 homes in several villages were destroyed by radical Hindus. The point of the hatred: most of the villagers are Christians. Even the homes of the few Hindus there were not spared, because they sided with their Christian friends and neighbors in the villages.
“But didn’t the government do anything?” we asked.
The government did do something. It SAID it would do something and then didn’t. A Western government that says it will seek justice and take care of the victims will usually do what it says, even if imperfectly. To the Indian government, it seems, promises can be empty if most convenient. Not only has nothing been done to rebuild the homes of these hundreds now in bare tents in which they have lived for months, the churches of India are forbidden to help them.
“But surely the news media reported on this?” we asked.
The international media reported the initial story, but no more. The major publications in India blinked and hastily turned away when threatened by the radical Hindus. Politicians claimed inability to make the police seek justice.
Vandar also spoke of an anti-conversion law. It sounds nice: no one may attempt to convert another by inducement or threat. It sounds…so tolerant. The problem is that if you give your shirt to a beggar because of the love of Christ in your heart and tell him that Jesus loves him, then you have just induced him. If you warn him of Hell, you have just threatened him. If you tell him of Heaven to gladden his heart, you have just induced him. Six Indian states now have this statute on the books. People are in jail under these evil laws.
But still, the work goes on. New believers are constantly being baptized. I find myself humbled by the faith and persistence of these who labor in such incredibly hard and dangerous soil.
The question and ensuing discussion sobered our dinner conversation considerably. “What can we in the west do?” I asked.
“Tell the news media.”
There is more that we can do, of course, but India deserves condemnation in the court of world opinion for how it is treating its Christian minority.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
India - 15 February 2008 - Lessons Learned
1. The Orient is a very different world than the Occident. People live differently, eat differently, express religion differently, and interact differently, to name just a few. There are many commonalities, of course, but I was struck with the differences in human behavior. The good: people are warm, friendly and giving. Family and other relationships are important. I would happily befriend many of the Indians we met. The bad: Indian government and institutions are corrupt and there appears little concern for the environment that supports a population of over one billion. Rubbish is everywhere, and air pollution is omni present, even in the rural areas.
2. Religious persecution against Christians is rising. One church leader told us that 15 years ago “they didn’t like us, but they didn’t hate us. Now, they hate us.” In recent weeks, church buildings have been destroyed, and entire villages comprised mainly of Christians have been destroyed. The government promises religious freedom and justice, but does not provide it. It is tempting to think that it is just a matter of Hindus believing that Christianity is just wrong, and oppose it on that basis. There is probably some of that. But perhaps the biggest reason for the persecution is simply jealousy, according to one church movement leader we talked with. Most Christians are coming from low castes in society. Hinduism has given these people nothing. Christianity gives them everything. As people come to faith, there is a tendency for economic and social circumstances to rise. THIS is what the radical Hindus hate.
3. I am humbled by the faith and persistence of Indian Christians. We met a number of leaders of church movements; some with tens of thousands of adherents. All spoke of the persecution that the Church is experiencing today in India, but there was no hand wringing or whining. They seemed to take it as part of what it means to be a Christian – after all Jesus says it will be so. These leaders were forging strongly ahead; baptizing new believers and training people to be disciples.
4. “No problem” doesn’t necessarily mean there are no problems. I found on a number of occasions that there WAS in fact a problem. It wasn’t that they were lying, rather, to many of the Indians I talked with, it seemed to be an attitude that everything would work out, and that they would do what they could to make it work out.
2. Religious persecution against Christians is rising. One church leader told us that 15 years ago “they didn’t like us, but they didn’t hate us. Now, they hate us.” In recent weeks, church buildings have been destroyed, and entire villages comprised mainly of Christians have been destroyed. The government promises religious freedom and justice, but does not provide it. It is tempting to think that it is just a matter of Hindus believing that Christianity is just wrong, and oppose it on that basis. There is probably some of that. But perhaps the biggest reason for the persecution is simply jealousy, according to one church movement leader we talked with. Most Christians are coming from low castes in society. Hinduism has given these people nothing. Christianity gives them everything. As people come to faith, there is a tendency for economic and social circumstances to rise. THIS is what the radical Hindus hate.
3. I am humbled by the faith and persistence of Indian Christians. We met a number of leaders of church movements; some with tens of thousands of adherents. All spoke of the persecution that the Church is experiencing today in India, but there was no hand wringing or whining. They seemed to take it as part of what it means to be a Christian – after all Jesus says it will be so. These leaders were forging strongly ahead; baptizing new believers and training people to be disciples.
4. “No problem” doesn’t necessarily mean there are no problems. I found on a number of occasions that there WAS in fact a problem. It wasn’t that they were lying, rather, to many of the Indians I talked with, it seemed to be an attitude that everything would work out, and that they would do what they could to make it work out.
India - 14 February 2008 - Leaving the Airport
How hard can it be to get on an airplane? At Indira Gandhi Airport outside of New Delhi, it turned out to be much harder than expected on the night we left.
We headed for the airport in plenty of time -- a good thing, as it turned out. When we arrived, there was an impressive traffic jam at the departure area, and an impressive people jam outside the two entry doors. Hundreds of passengers were jostling and pushing trying to get to the two doors. Entry was blocked by soldiers checking passports and travel documents. No one without travel documents was allowed inside....no a bad thing considering the number of people outside the doors trying to earn some baksheesh or steal some money.
Once inside we had to make our way through an insane line of people trying to get their bags scanned BEFORE checking them in at the ticket counters.
Going through customs was not difficult, and neither was going through the long security line. It was just time consuming.
Allow lots of time before your flight from this airport.
We headed for the airport in plenty of time -- a good thing, as it turned out. When we arrived, there was an impressive traffic jam at the departure area, and an impressive people jam outside the two entry doors. Hundreds of passengers were jostling and pushing trying to get to the two doors. Entry was blocked by soldiers checking passports and travel documents. No one without travel documents was allowed inside....no a bad thing considering the number of people outside the doors trying to earn some baksheesh or steal some money.
Once inside we had to make our way through an insane line of people trying to get their bags scanned BEFORE checking them in at the ticket counters.
Going through customs was not difficult, and neither was going through the long security line. It was just time consuming.
Allow lots of time before your flight from this airport.
India - 13 February 2008 - Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal is certainly worth seeing. In our case, it took an eight hour car trip both ways to get there, but that was a nice way to get there, as we had transportation on arrival. The train is faster, but one still requires transportation on either end. The taxi we took was about the same price and gave us that transportation.
I have two abiding impressions from our visit:
1. An amazing place: actually standing on the raised platform and touching the cool marble put down nearly 400 years ago is different than seeing the pictures. Did you know, for example, that there are two identical mosques on either side of the Taj? There is a three dimensional model of the Taj on Google Earth that will give a good perspective on this. The impressive inlay of semi-precious stones in intricate designs in the marble is stunningly good.
2. Ground zero for people trying to separate your money from you: It was impressive to me (obviously: I'm writing about it) how many men were actively working to "help" us. They wanted to guide us, drive us, or help us find valuable souvenirs. It was a bit like stepping out doors and finding the mosquitos everywhere. The actual Taj grounds were a little less irritating because of the admission fee and thorough pat-down on entry, but even there we observed some impressive stunts designed to obtain baksheesh, or a tip.
Even with these petty annoyances, it's worth seeing. That is me in the lower right corner.
I have two abiding impressions from our visit:
1. An amazing place: actually standing on the raised platform and touching the cool marble put down nearly 400 years ago is different than seeing the pictures. Did you know, for example, that there are two identical mosques on either side of the Taj? There is a three dimensional model of the Taj on Google Earth that will give a good perspective on this. The impressive inlay of semi-precious stones in intricate designs in the marble is stunningly good.
2. Ground zero for people trying to separate your money from you: It was impressive to me (obviously: I'm writing about it) how many men were actively working to "help" us. They wanted to guide us, drive us, or help us find valuable souvenirs. It was a bit like stepping out doors and finding the mosquitos everywhere. The actual Taj grounds were a little less irritating because of the admission fee and thorough pat-down on entry, but even there we observed some impressive stunts designed to obtain baksheesh, or a tip.
India - 12 February 2008 - Delhi Belly
It goes by "Montezuma's Revenge" in Mexico and no doubt other names in other parts of the world. Among India travelers it's called "Delhi belly" and it probably comes in different flavors. Mine came with with a headache, "running stomach" as a Swedish friend delicately put it, and feeling wiped out.
It hit Saturday evening the 9th of February, which was the night we returned home from our village trip. We took the train that night. Getting on the train wasn't too bad, but getting off the train the next morning was zombie land. My friends guided me to my hotel room, and I spent the next 24 hours pretty much sleeping. I seem to remember knocks on the door, and friends appearing to check on me, to provide Coca Cola, and other comfort items.
I'm writing this about two weeks later, and while it is less bothersome, I still have some reminders with me.
Acquiring Delhi belly is simple. All one need do is drink the tap water. I was thinking that I didn't need Delhi belly so I had avoided drinking that, even going to the trouble of brushing my teeth with bottled water. But all it takes is one drop of water.....like on a washed plate that was not dried. And that may have been the vehicle that carried the little organism to my mouth. Or, maybe I didn't clean my hands often enough.
The only good thing about Delhi belly is that it has helped with weight loss. If you go, I recommend giving it a miss.
It hit Saturday evening the 9th of February, which was the night we returned home from our village trip. We took the train that night. Getting on the train wasn't too bad, but getting off the train the next morning was zombie land. My friends guided me to my hotel room, and I spent the next 24 hours pretty much sleeping. I seem to remember knocks on the door, and friends appearing to check on me, to provide Coca Cola, and other comfort items.
I'm writing this about two weeks later, and while it is less bothersome, I still have some reminders with me.
Acquiring Delhi belly is simple. All one need do is drink the tap water. I was thinking that I didn't need Delhi belly so I had avoided drinking that, even going to the trouble of brushing my teeth with bottled water. But all it takes is one drop of water.....like on a washed plate that was not dried. And that may have been the vehicle that carried the little organism to my mouth. Or, maybe I didn't clean my hands often enough.
The only good thing about Delhi belly is that it has helped with weight loss. If you go, I recommend giving it a miss.
Monday, February 11, 2008
India - 10 February 2008 - Traveing the Roads of India
Travel over the roads of India is far different than at home. On several occasions, I have looked up to see a truck coming right at us, only for us or it to veer off to the left with seconds to spare. (Here, as elsewhere with British influence, people drive on the left, and steering wheels are on the right.) There is so much pedestrian, bicycle and moped traffic that it is difficult to stay in one’s lane for very long. In rural India, there are also bullock and donkey carts, which are my personal favorite. The drivers of these stand and direct their animals with reins. Other vehicles, some handmade, also appear on the roads.
Driving on the streets of the villages and towns is where it gets really interesting. I’m glad I wasn’t driving, and I found it better to just look out the side windows…which held plenty of interest anyway. Both sides of the streets are filled with a mind-numbing assemblage of little shops, kiosks, stores, and often, what looks like a big box on stilts, inside which will be perched a merchant selling brightly colored packets of chewing tobacco. It would be easy to purchase food for simple here, although with more walking required. More complicated meals would probably require more knowledge of who sells what.
The shops attract commerce of course, and that’s what makes the driving interesting – all the people coming to shop. When we came into a village late one evening, the streets were almost vacant, and very simple to navigate.
On several occasions as we drove through the towns during daylight hours we came into near gridlock. It can happen when a truck or cart breaks down in the road…and is being repaired on the spot….or left in search of parts. Or it can happen from just congestion. Not infrequently we were hemmed completely in by vehicles and people and cows. But most of the time, the driver calmly used the horn and threaded his way through.
Speaking of cows, they are common in the towns and cities. Since they are not eaten, they have few enemies. All that I have seen eating have been eating garbage. They just wander loose.
The shops attract commerce of course, and that’s what makes the driving interesting – all the people coming to shop. When we came into a village late one evening, the streets were almost vacant, and very simple to navigate.
On several occasions as we drove through the towns during daylight hours we came into near gridlock. It can happen when a truck or cart breaks down in the road…and is being repaired on the spot….or left in search of parts. Or it can happen from just congestion. Not infrequently we were hemmed completely in by vehicles and people and cows. But most of the time, the driver calmly used the horn and threaded his way through.
Speaking of cows, they are common in the towns and cities. Since they are not eaten, they have few enemies. All that I have seen eating have been eating garbage. They just wander loose.
India -- 8 February 2008 -- Islam in India
This district of the Indian state through which we traveled is predominately Muslim. It can be seen in the dress of some of the people, and in the small mosques along the way. It can be heard in the early mornings with the call to prayer just before dawn. Hinduism is certainly the predominant religion of India. In fact, another name for the country is Hindustan….country of the Hindus. But in portions of the nation, other religions are larger. In Punjab, in the Northwest part of the state, Sikhism is the largest. There are also Jains, Buddhists, and others. Christianity is also much in evidence here, although overall it is one of the smaller religions.
Interestingly, Middle Eastern Islamic states have been pouring oil money into building up that religion here. They have been building up Islamic structures and providing training. Even in small villages a “false front” style mosque can be seen, consisting only of a wall and a couple of modest minarets.
India -- 8 February 2008 -- Love Center
After much careful driving over passable roads and occasional smooth sailing on sections of really good roads we arrived at Love Center (not the real name). It sits right at the edge of a real Indian jungle. Outside on a tall tree was a troop of black faced monkeys, and there be tigers and leopards here, no foolin’. On the other side is the village of about 2000 people. The Center is built right at the edge of the forest at the outskirts of the village.
We were met with excitement by 50+ children. Most are orphans, but some have come here because of parental inability or unwillingness to care for them. Some were shy, but others immediately warmed to us.
The evening that we spent with them, the children sang for us. It was a moving experience. The children sang mostly in English but a few songs in Hindi. Learning English is a huge advantage for Indians. This common language of this complex country is English, and learning it allows young people to both communicate with other Indians who do not share their language and with others from abroad.
What we saw is only a beginning of the vision. When Love Center teamed up with an international organization, more money became available, and along with it, new perspectives and even larger vision. The center is working on purchasing more land so that more buildings can be constructed. Their plan is to care for about 100 children, and at the same time provide occupational training for them and children in nearby communities. This will provide opportunities for relational evangelism.
We were met with excitement by 50+ children. Most are orphans, but some have come here because of parental inability or unwillingness to care for them. Some were shy, but others immediately warmed to us.
The evening that we spent with them, the children sang for us. It was a moving experience. The children sang mostly in English but a few songs in Hindi. Learning English is a huge advantage for Indians. This common language of this complex country is English, and learning it allows young people to both communicate with other Indians who do not share their language and with others from abroad.
What we saw is only a beginning of the vision. When Love Center teamed up with an international organization, more money became available, and along with it, new perspectives and even larger vision. The center is working on purchasing more land so that more buildings can be constructed. Their plan is to care for about 100 children, and at the same time provide occupational training for them and children in nearby communities. This will provide opportunities for relational evangelism.
India -- 8 February 2008 -- The Train Trip
We have made two round trips by train. The first was about 5 hours, and we were awake the entire time. The more recent trip we made in a “sleeper.”
The started at 11:30 PM and ended the following morning about 9 AM. When we boarded, we quickly set up our bunks. The beds are about 6’ long and perhaps 30” wide. While that fits the average Indian frame fairly well, it was a not quite so comfortable for us taller types. The coaches were fairly clean and seemed well maintained.
The Indian National Railroad provides a blanket and a packet of clean sheets, pillowcase, pillow, blanket and towel. There were six of us in each sleeping area, and perhaps 20 such sleeping areas in each coach.
Here, as many places in India, the train toilets are squat-style. They call our toilets “western toilets.” The concept is simple: you squat to do your business, and clean up with the left hand over which your pour water from the small pail and water spigot usually provided at squat level. It actually makes a great deal of sense. On the train a sink is also provided.
The started at 11:30 PM and ended the following morning about 9 AM. When we boarded, we quickly set up our bunks. The beds are about 6’ long and perhaps 30” wide. While that fits the average Indian frame fairly well, it was a not quite so comfortable for us taller types. The coaches were fairly clean and seemed well maintained.
The Indian National Railroad provides a blanket and a packet of clean sheets, pillowcase, pillow, blanket and towel. There were six of us in each sleeping area, and perhaps 20 such sleeping areas in each coach.
Here, as many places in India, the train toilets are squat-style. They call our toilets “western toilets.” The concept is simple: you squat to do your business, and clean up with the left hand over which your pour water from the small pail and water spigot usually provided at squat level. It actually makes a great deal of sense. On the train a sink is also provided.
Saturday, February 09, 2008
India -- February 8, 2008 – Into the Jungle
We saw a distant cousin of“Riki Tiki Tavi” the mongoose of Rudyerd Kipling’s “The Jungle Book” today at the edge of the jungle. We had left the monkeys and water buffalos behind and as we bumped our way down the road we saw the mongoose.
But that’s way ahead of the story. After lunch today, we hopped into the car for a look at the countryside around Love Center. Abi took us to the huge (400 km long) canal that helps distribute water for irrigation, and on the other side of it were the monkeys. These were city monkeys afraid or unable to go into the jungle and live a normal monkey. These troublemakers had been live trapped in a nearby city and taken out here and dumped. At this forest checkstation, they made a meager living by theft and finding some of their own food.
A retired wildlife ranger stopped and briefly chatted with us. He said that there were some tigers about, but many more leopards. The problem here is that people kill the tigers for hides and because they kill livestock and even people. There are several species of deer, too, he said. The lettering on the back of his old red car? “Desperado.”
After leaving the monkeys we travelled along the canal road, and that’s where the mongoose comes into the story. I didn’t even see it, as I was looking at my camera, unfortunately.
We stopped where some local people were loading sugarcane. The harvest is going on now, and much of what we passed as we drove here was sugarcane. Our stopping and looking caused the young people with the sugarcane loading crew to come and look at us. We were the most interesting thing they had seen for awhile. With no electricity and no TV, we were a pretty amazing site with our pale faces.
But that’s way ahead of the story. After lunch today, we hopped into the car for a look at the countryside around Love Center. Abi took us to the huge (400 km long) canal that helps distribute water for irrigation, and on the other side of it were the monkeys. These were city monkeys afraid or unable to go into the jungle and live a normal monkey. These troublemakers had been live trapped in a nearby city and taken out here and dumped. At this forest checkstation, they made a meager living by theft and finding some of their own food.
A retired wildlife ranger stopped and briefly chatted with us. He said that there were some tigers about, but many more leopards. The problem here is that people kill the tigers for hides and because they kill livestock and even people. There are several species of deer, too, he said. The lettering on the back of his old red car? “Desperado.”
After leaving the monkeys we travelled along the canal road, and that’s where the mongoose comes into the story. I didn’t even see it, as I was looking at my camera, unfortunately.
We stopped where some local people were loading sugarcane. The harvest is going on now, and much of what we passed as we drove here was sugarcane. Our stopping and looking caused the young people with the sugarcane loading crew to come and look at us. We were the most interesting thing they had seen for awhile. With no electricity and no TV, we were a pretty amazing site with our pale faces.
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